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Day Tripper | On the Waterfront, Part II, and Seattle holiday fun

Who isn’t blown away by a breathtaking view? Now that most of the work is done on Seattle’s new Overlook Walk Park, it’s obvious that the star of the show is the expansive 360-degree view. With the tons of concrete that used to be the Alaskan Way Viaduct literally in our rearview mirror, we no longer have to admire this spectacular place at 50-plus MPH.

Whether it’s a water view that floats your boat, or if your mood is elevated by towering mountains or a cityscape, even the worst stress case will relax a little after spending a few minutes here.

In October, our Day Trip took us to Seattle’s waterfront, where we explored the expanse between the ferry terminal at Pier 50 and the Aquarium beside Pier 62. After a trip up the elevator that travels between the Overlook and the new Ocean Pavilion on the waterfront, I promised you that this month we would take a second elevator up to the new Marketfront at Pike Place Market and explore from there. We still have a lot to see.

Before we leave Overlook Park, there are still a few things I want to check out. I didn’t actually spend much time here last month, so I decided to do a bit of research before returning so I would not miss anything important. My first discovery: Overlook Walk is so much more than a park. It’s a work of art.

Overlook Walk Park

It’s obvious that a great deal of planning went into this redesign. In fact, it was actually more a case of building something out of nothing.

The viaduct was coming down, so the waterfront and all it has to offer was suddenly visible from the market above. The painful reality was that the only foot access between the two was via formidably steep stairs, fittingly called the “hill climb.” It was obvious that something had to connect the areas to and turn it into one huge community.

The planning team decided that two new buildings would be needed to anchor construction of the new park in the area where the viaduct once stood. On the waterfront side, the Seattle Aquarium expanded by adding the Ocean Pavilion, which provides several critical public features such as a new elevator from the waterfront to the rooftop level park.

On the city side is the first addition in the storied history of the iconic Pike Place Market. The new MarketFront is a waterfront-facing building featuring more small businesses, senior housing, public art, and a new neighborhood center.

The elevator isn’t the only way — in fact it’s not even the best way — to get from the waterfront to the park.  Those who can should make their way up the Salish Steps.

I asked myself why this expansive and complicated stairway was called Salish Steps, so that’s what I investigated first. Oh boy, did that ever open a Pandora’s box of political debate, which I quickly decided I did not want to pursue. Let’s just summarize by saying that Puget Sound is one element of the Salish Sea, named after the Salish peoples who originally inhabited the area. And clearly, these are amazing and beautiful steps that rise to one incredible park.

When it came to landscaping the area, someone came up with a really great idea. They planted a variety of native greenery — 75 trees and over 9,000 other native flora — to mimic plants and trees you might find in the mountains that surround Seattle. The vegetation changes from grasses to shrubs to ferns as you move from one elevation to the other, reflecting the natural environment of the greater geographic area.

Two new permanent public pieces of art will be installed next spring. One honors the Native history of the waterfront. The artwork will resemble an open cross-warped twined basket in honor of the matriarchs who have woven and carved to keep their traditions, teachings and technologies alive. It will be created by MTK Matriarchs, a team of indigenous artists.

The second piece is by internationally acclaimed visual artist Ann Hamilton, who is developing a work that will be visible through the perforated screen located below Overlook Walk. It will include marionette-like figures of undulating cloth, animated by a system of overhead cables that show through the perforated screen.

Edgewater Hotel at Pier 67

From the Overlook, one can see several more waterfront landmarks. First is Pier 67 and the Edgewater Hotel. The Edgewater was constructed in 1962 to house workers building the Space Needle. It became world-renowned when the Beatles stayed there in 1964 and fished out of a hotel window.

It became a prime destination for touring musicians. Other guests over the years included Led Zeppelin, Neil Young, Kurt Cobain, Elvis, Stevie Wonder, and The Rolling Stones among others.

The Edgewater is home to one of the more well-known locations for holiday celebrations in the area, the Reindeer Room.  Located on the second floor, it features twinkle lights and festive holiday food and drink.

Next is one of the city’s two cruise ship terminals. Seattle terminals are the Bell Street terminal at Pier 66, and the Smith Cove terminal at Pier 91. Between them, they welcomed 276 ships carrying 1.75 million passengers to Seattle in 2024. That’s a whole lot of tourists who contribute a substantial revenue boost to the city.

Olympic Sculpture Park

Olympic Sculpture Park is located at the north end of the central waterfront and at the southern end of Myrtle Edwards Park near Belltown. The park, which opened in 2007, consists of a 9-acre outdoor sculpture museum, an indoor pavilion and a beach.

Olympic Sculpture Park is on the Frommer list of the top 10 sculpture parks in the nation. If you stand in just the right spot, Alexander Calder’s Eagle frames the Space Needle perfectly. The park has permanent outdoor sculptures, some temporary works, and installations designed specifically for the site. The park is open from sunrise to sunset.

Occupied by Unocal until the 70s, the was a contaminated brownfield before the Seattle Art Museum transformed it into one of the only green spaces in Downtown Seattle. (A brownfield is a property on which the expansion, redevelopment, or reuse may be complicated by the presence or potential presence of a hazardous substance, pollutant, or contaminant.)

An unexpected feature of the sculpture park is the Tree Walk.  More information and a map can be found on the city’s website.

The tree walk features 20 unusual trees not often found in the center of a busy metropolis like Seattle.

Do you remember the Typewriter Eraser sculpture that we talked about in the Day Tripper story about the Seattle Center? You may recall that when the Olympic Sculpture park opened in 2007, Typewriter Eraser, Scale X  (by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen) was on three-year loan from its owner, Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen. The park initially prohibited the public from photographing this sculpture but eventually lifted the prohibition. The sculpture moved to MoPop in 2016 before being sold for $8.4 million when much of the Allen estate was auctioned off.

Now that we’ve surveyed pretty much all of the waterfront that can be seen from the Overlook Walk, it’s time to visit the Market area.

Pike Place Market

Pike Place Market is the oldest continuously operating farmers market in the country, attracting more than 10 million people per year. Founded in 1907, the market covers 9 acres in the heart of the city.  It is home to more than 500 businesses, including small shops, restaurants, farmers markets, artists and craftspeople.

Eight local farmers began selling produce there in August 1907. The market expanded to 76 stalls within three months. By 1922, 11 buildings dotted the nine acres.

The market was nearly a casualty of World War II. Two-thirds of the vendors at that time were of Japanese descent and were forced into internment camps. The market was still feeling the effects in the 1960s, when developers attempted to demolish it to build offices and a parking garage. Fortunately, Victor Steinbrueck and his colleagues were successful in their efforts to establish a seven-acre historic district encompassing the area, saving the market from demolition.

MarketFront

The construction of MarketFront in 2017 brought additional open-air space for vendors and restaurants. Building on the market’s philanthropic roots, the expansion also included a neighborhood center and low-income housing.

The market is always a happening place but it will soon be ramping up for the holiday season. The easiest way to learn about what will be going on at the market is to check out the website schedule of activities that will begin on Saturday, Nov. 30.

While we’re in the vicinity of the Market there are a few things that I think are “must-sees.”  Three of them are Rachel (and/or  Billie) piggy banks that encourage giving to the Pike Place Market Foundation; the original Starbucks, which is located on Pike Street, across from the market; and the world-famous gum wall.

Rachel is located  under the red Public Market Center sign at the entrance on First and Pike. Rachel’s cousin, Billie the Pig, resides at the MarketFront. Both are hungry for and eagerly accept loose change. Donations go to the Pike Place Market Foundation and support the market’s social services programs and activities.

North on Pike Place is the first Starbucks — or rather the successor to the first Starbucks. The original store opened a block north in 1971 but moved to the Pike Place location in 1975.

If it’s cool and/or drizzling when you visit, be thankful. You will no doubt have to stand in line to get in. Take it from me, it can be a painful wait on a hot summer day. And it’s only gotten worse since Starbucks recently decided to close a much bigger café just a block away. The vintage store features photo ops, particularly of the original mermaid logo. There is also Starbucks swag that can only be found at the Pike Place location.

Gumming up the works

As a borderline germaphobe who doesn’t like to chew gum, I was debating whether it was my journalistic responsibility to subject myself to the famed gum wall.  Fortunately, fate intervened, and I found myself in the ideal situation to visit a place I intellectually want to see but is likely to leave me gagging.

The gum wall, located just south of the main entrance to the market, is in Post Alley. Thousands of pieces of gum have been stuck on the side of the Post Alley’s Market Theater (now Unexpected Productions) since the early 1990s. And the gum isn’t just on the wall. There’s trampled gum on the ground, gum on the ceiling, and gum in every nook and cranny.

While theater staff initially tried to keep the wall clean, they soon found that it was a losing battle and abandoned the effort. In November 2015, the Pike Place Market Preservation and Development Authority stripped 2,350 pounds of gum  from the wall and steam cleaned the brick underneath to help preserve it when it was found that the sugar from the gum was damaging the wall.

It may have taken 130 hours of work to remove it, but it only took a day or two for visitors to begin reconstructing this beloved germ factory.  Decaying gum, particularly in warm weather, doesn’t smell all that great, so just a couple of weeks ago, workers once again stripped the walls. With full knowledge that people would be disappointed, workers left a commemorative heart of gum but it’s hard to tell two weeks and hundreds of new pieces of gum later, that it was once a heart.

I was really relieved there had only been a couple of weeks for more gum to accrue when I visited. Here’s what it looks like now. In a few months, I’ll be sure to check it out again (maybe) and report back — if I can stomach it.

There are so many more sights to be seen at the market including the stalls, shops, and buskers that I think the market deserves its own dedicated day trip. Perhaps later in the spring or early summer, when the flower vendors and local vegetable growers are at their most prodigious, I’ll pay a return visit to this beloved landmark.

Holiday activities in Seattle

I promised that since this month kicks off the busiest part of the holiday season, I would check out which of Seattle’s most treasured traditions have come back after the pandemic.  Here is a quick look at some of what I found:

Diving Santa at the Seattle Aquarium

Even Santa needs a relaxing swim now and then. While you can’t sit on his lap, or have a conversation about your wishes, hopes, and dreams, you can get your picture taken with him as he swims by the window in the 120,000-gallon Window on Washington Habitat at the Aquarium.

Dates: 11:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays, Nov. 30 to Dec. 22.

Visit the Fairmont Olympic Hotel

The Teddy Bear Room

The Fairmont Olympic Hotel, 411 University St.,  is home to the Teddy Bear Room.  In partnership with Seattle Children’s Hospital, the hotel fills a suite with cuddly bears. Photo opportunities abound.

The teddy bear room is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Nov. 29 through Jan. 2.

Festival of Trees

Also at the Fairmont is the Festival of Trees. Celebrating its 47th year, the Fairmont hosts a gorgeous display of more than 20 decorated trees. The trees are on display from Nov. 21 through Dec. 2. While most of the trees have already been sold, it’s still fun to check out what $4,200 will buy.

A spot of tea and food, food, food

The Fairmont also provides the culinary experiences you’ll remember for years to come. Enjoy high tea in the Olympic Bar every afternoon. If you’d prefer not to cook on the holidays, the Fairmont is one of the few establishments that serve gourmet meals during the holidays and on both Thanksgiving and Christmas. Various dining options are available, so whether you want seafood in Shucker’s Oyster Bar or a more traditional fare you’re in luck.

You can get more information about all of these activities from their website.

The Seattle Sheraton Grand Hotel

For the 30th year, the Seattle Sheraton Grand Hotel,  1400 Sixth Ave., will host Gingerbread Village, a fundraiser for Type 1 diabetes research through the Northwest Chapter of the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation.

I first visited the Gingerbread Village more than 20 years ago, when my daughter worked at the Sheraton. We’ve been back many times since. It’s as close to a family tradition as we’ve got. Originally, there had to be 20 or more gingerbread creations. Some were quite complex, others pretty basic.

The project took a couple of years off during the height of the pandemic but came back two years ago on a much smaller scale. This year, there are five large displays. Designed by local architects, they are so much more than a typical gingerbread house. And while they call it a village, the world is the village, featuring depictions of major cities such as London and Paris.

The display can be viewed between Nov. 21 and Jan. 1. The exhibit is open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. While entry is free, a donation is welcome.

Westin Seattle

The Westin will be hosting a family preview of 12 designer-decorated Christmas trees from 4 to 7 p.m. Monday, Dec. 2. Activities will include photos with Santa, festive entertainment, and free arts & crafts for kids. They will be accepting donations of gently used clothing and canned goods. Photos are $10.

Seattle Center

The Seattle Center is home to the Seattle Christmas Market. The market opens at 4 p.m. Nov. 21 and will close for the final time at 6 p.m. on Christmas Eve.

You can purchase tickets at the center provided they are not at capacity. Online tickets are timed arrival, and the pricing is varied so you may want to plan your visit before you head out.  Also, it’s hard to figure out exactly what’s going on because all you can see at the center is a huge screened area between Climate Pledge Arena and the Armory. A visit to the website will allow you to check out about the many activities and events the Market has to offer.

Detour

It’s been more than 80 years since Seattle Post-Intelligencer photographer Art French decided to set up a photography studio in the window of the Frederick & Nelson store in downtown Seattle. Perhaps you can remember being dressed in your finest and forced to sit on the old guy’s  knee while a photographer snapped the requisite annual Santa photo. That tradition continued until the store closed in 1992.

It’s widely reported that the F&N window was the inspiration for the Santa photo tradition that is now a global phenomenon. If you seek the sentimentality of having your kids or grandkids photographed in the old traditional F&N setting, you can still do it.

A company named Arthur & Associates now owns and operates the business. One of their many locations is at the Town Center at Lake Forest Park, where the original Fredrick & Nelson set is located and in use.

There’s so much more to see and do in the greater Seattle area during December. One of the most comprehensive sites I found was developed by Seattle’s Child. No matter the age of the child you’re entertaining, even if it’s your own inner child, you should be able to find something you’ll enjoy here.

Just doing the research for this story has helped suppress my inner Grinch a bit. I can actually feel my holiday spirit growing! I’m already looking forward to next November when I’ll focus on holiday activities and opportunities that are a bit more local.

In the meantime, we wish you a very magical holiday season.

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About the Day Tripper column

Gas prices are sky high, and a night in a hotel is approaching astronomically expensive.  So, for the foreseeable future, I imagine many of you are going to find yourselves taking day trips rather than the road trip vacations we’ve grown to love. 

This beautiful region in which we live is ripe with opportunities to explore new places, see new things, and learn a little something at the same time. I promise to keep the longest journeys to a one-way distance of under 200 miles. Whether you want to make it an overnight trip, a weekend, or just a very long day trip, we should be able to pull it off.   

I hope you’ll grant me the honor of your virtual company as we travel these roads together.  Happy trails!