Arts & Entertainment Community
Day Tripper | On the Waterfront (part 1)
Chances are, you’ve heard recent news reports about additions to the Seattle waterfront.
Arts & Entertainment Sponsor
Arts & Entertainment stories are made possible in part by the Gig Harbor Film Festival, a proud sponsor of Gig Harbor Now.
There’s a new elevated park built into the hill about half-way between Pike Place Market and the Seattle Aquarium. Opened a couple of weeks ago to much fanfare, Overlook Park intrigued me. With a constant case of FOMO, I decided there was no time like the present to check out the area. I’d love to take you along with me as we learn about this new, yet not so new, addition to the Seattle tourist scene.
A whole new waterfront
If you haven’t been to the Seattle waterfront lately, you may not recognize the place. What used to be dark, dreary, somewhat run down, and frankly a bit scary has now been revitalized, energized and beautified.
I don’t think I have ever before even considered the Seattle waterfront to be a destination as opposed to just a way to get to somewhere else. When my kids were kids, its primary purpose was a landing spot if we decided to get to or from Seattle via the Bremerton or Bainbridge Island ferries.
In those days, we visited Seattle more frequently. Sometimes we were on our way to or from one of the stadiums. Perhaps we’d been somewhere downtown and wanted to avoid traffic going home. Back in the day, we could afford to take the ferry just to provide a diversion and limit the number of times we heard “are we there yet?” between Gig Harbor and the Seattle Center.
The one common denominator was that as soon as we disembarked, we made a beeline away from the water and straight through Pioneer Square. It didn’t help that the other waterfront we were familiar with was Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco, probably not a fair comparison.
Looming overhead
Another negative was that spending much time on the waterfront felt like hanging out under a freeway overpass. Now that I think about it, that’s more or less what it was. Cast in the shadow of the Alaskan Way viaduct, even back in the day, way before the space had to be shared with a small army of homeless folks, it didn’t feel particularly safe.
So, what’s changed? Well, just about everything.
As usual, before we can understand how the space has transitioned from what it was to its new and improved version of itself, we need to review a bit of history. So, let’s take a look back and quickly visit the redevelopment timeline of this important part of the Emerald City.
Alaskan Way history
The history of Alaskan Way dates back to the 1880s. It was originally constructed as a railyard to support the movement of goods that came into port by ship and then left heading north, south, or east by train.
In 1934, the city of Seattle built a seawall. When it opened in 1935, it protected the four-lane road the city named in a tribute to the importance of Alaska to Seattle’s economic development.
As more automobile traffic clogged the city, officials recognized the need to build more roads while maintaining the rails. A primary focus was finding a route that would allow drivers to bypass downtown. In 1953, the city built an elevated viaduct over the rails. It became State Route 99, creating a major north-south thoroughfare.
Due to daily wear and tear, exposure to salty marine air, and the 2001 Nisqually earthquake, the viaduct neared the end of its lifespan. The city of Seattle and Washington state needed to replace it.
Vaya con dios to the viaduct
In 2009, the city, state, and King County decided to replace the viaduct with a deep-bore underground bypass tunnel.
The tunnel, connecting SoDo to South Lake Union, finally opened on Feb. 4, 2019. The replacement road was in place, and the crumbling viaduct was no longer in use, but much work was still to be done. Replacement plans consisted of 30 projects that would not only remove and replace the viaduct but also add safety and mobility improvements.
The change to the waterfront area was dramatic.
Suddenly, storefronts that had been pretty much hidden were front and center. The Seattle Antiques Market appeared from under the shadow of the structure. The business that had at one time been nearly invisible was now easily accessible. There for 41 years but virtually unknown, it is reported to be the only building on the east side of the street with an unobstructed view of the Sound and is suddenly on premium property.
With the viaduct gone, the Seattle Antiques Market is suddenly visible. Photo by Mary Williams.
And now
Waterfront Park is the largest civic project undertaken in Seattle in the 62 years since the World’s Fair. Overlook Walk, which opened Oct. 4, is an elevated public park connecting Pike Place Market to the waterfront promenade. The Overlook provides a new direct pedestrian connection between the market, downtown neighborhoods, and the greater waterfront community, featuring sloping pathways, the Salish Steps, and several much-needed elevators.
The Overlook offers play areas for kids, several public plazas, and lots of native plants and landscaping.
Think of it as a hub that has spokes connecting downtown, the waterfront, Pioneer Square, the ferries, and the stadium district. The park has a 360-degree view; look south and you’ll see the roofs of Lumen Field and T-Mobile park.
Gorgeous views
Seattle’s sports stadiums, as seen from the new Overlook. Photo by Mary Williams
Look west for a gorgeous view of Elliott Bay and the Olympic mountains. Turn around and behold Mount Rainier.
Elliott Bay from Overlook Park. Photo by Mary Williams
There are ample opportunities to grab a coffee or something to eat or to watch the Great Wheel turn and the ferries and cruise ships sail.
Until the overlook and its companion elevator system opened, there was no easy (or from my perspective, feasible) way to get from the waterfront to Pike Place Market or downtown by foot. Just looking up the old hill climb stairs exhausts me!
The Seattle Hill Climb. Photo by Mary Williams
Another thing has changed. Whether you’re on Alaskan Way in front of the Seattle Aquarium or at Pike Place Market, you have options. Adjacent to the overlook is a parking garage that ascends to market level. And, on the opposite side of the Overlook is another elevator that descends to the entrance of both the original aquarium and its new addition, Ocean Pavilion.
The Ocean Pavilion elevator. Photo by Mary Williams
The overlook itself can be reached by concrete stairs or by a ramp. Benches are scattered everywhere, allowing people to sit and chat, eat a relaxing lunch, or just enjoy the view.
A nonprofit organization, Friends of Waterfront Park, is responsible for fundraising, stewarding and programming at Waterfront Park and the Promenade.
Getting there
It’s not hard to get to the waterfront. You have a couple of options.
You can, of course, just get on Highway 16 going east, go to I-5 north, and 40 some miles later take exit 164-A. Almost immediately get on Madison Street and head west toward Alaskan Way.
Should traffic on I-5 be congested, you can always cut over to Highway 99 anytime after you reach Des Moines. It’s a straight shot north on 99 to the stadiums and the waterfront.
There’s a third option. Head north to the Bremerton ferry. After a 1-hour relaxing ride, you’ll find yourself at Pier 52 on the waterfront. You’ll be around $20 poorer if you drive on (it’s free to walk on from Bremerton), and that’s if you’re exploring alone. Ferry prices are nothing if not seasonally inconsistent, so I encourage you to check the Washington State Ferries website.
My daytrip to Seattle was by car, so I arrived at Alaskan Way just north of the ballparks, and a block or two south of the ferry terminal. I’m really looking forward to approaching from the water and checking out the renovated Colman Dock ferry terminal and the improved pedestrian access to the city.
I started my exploration at the corner of Columbia Street and Alaskan Way.
Piers 50 and 52
Piers 50 and 52 are all about getting there by water. They include docks for the passenger-only ferries operated by King County Metro (to Vashon Island and West Seattle) and Kitsap Transit (to Bremerton, Kingston, and Southworth). Pier 52 is where the state’s big Bainbridge and Bremerton car ferries land. Seattle Fire Station 5 is adjacent to the dock at Pier 53.
The revamped Colman Dock ferry terminal at Pier 52 in Seattle. Photo by Mary Williams
Hungry? Pier 54 offers up some traditional PNW food options, among them Ivars Acres of Clams and Fish Bar. If you’d rather avoid seafood, you will also find Great State Burgers and Premier Meat Pies. My favorite spot on Pier 54 is Ye Olde Curiosity Shop where, as the name implies, you will find all sorts of unusual things to buy.
A favorite tourist stop on the Seattle waterfront. Photo by Mary Williams
Looking for some finer dining and local souvenirs? Pier 56 features Elliott’s Oyster House and the Seattle Shop at 56.
My favorite Pier is next: Miner’s Landing at Pier 57. If exploration is your thing, this is where you’ll find Wings over Washington, the Salish Sea Tours, and a small bit of information about the waterfront’s history.
I had never realized that deep inside Miner’s Landing is what is claimed to be an antique carousel. Some say it dates back to the early 20th century; others say it was installed in the 1980s. Thirty painted horses spin for 2.5 minutes for a $6 fee.
This carousel on the Settle waterfront is old, but how old is unclear.
The Great Wheel
The highlight of Pier 56 is the Seattle Great Wheel.
The Great Wheel opened on June 29, 2012. The wheel has 42 fully enclosed gondolas, including one that is a VIP cabin with leather bucket seats and a glass bottom floor. The wheel extends nearly 40 feet beyond the end of the pier. At 174-feete tall, it was the tallest Ferris wheel on the west coast when it opened. The wheel starts its daily revolutions at 10 a.m. Friday through Sunday. It closes at either 9 or 10 p.m., or earlier if attendance is low.
Kids under 2 are free; from 3-11 the cost is $15; Seniors are $18, and adults from 12-64 are $20.
The Great Wheel
Piers 59 and 60, The Seattle Aquarium and Ocean Pavilion
The new Ocean Pavilion focuses on ocean conservation. Integrated into the design of Overlook Walk, the roof provides public park space with stellar views and connection to the promenade. (My favorite part was the spacious elevator that provided a rapid ride from the waterfront level to the overlook and park.)
The original aquarium contains 3,500 animals and plants including sharks, rays, bowmouth guitarfish, schooling fish, mangroves and nearly 30 species of coral.
Hours are daily from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. with last entry at 5 p.m. Ticket prices vary so your best bet is to check their website.
The Seattle Aquarium.
Pier 62
Pier 62 is a lot of fun and different every day. You may find live music, dance performances, sporting events and more. A floating dock, the pier is open to all but only tribal members can use the moorage.
You never know what you’ll find at Pier 62. Photo by Mary Williams
Next month, we’ll start at Pier 62, heading up to Overlook Walk Park where we’ll share a great view of the north end of the waterfront. We’ll particularly focus on Pike Place Market as well as the various holiday activities coming to the downtown area in December.
The pandemic took quite a toll on traditional holiday activities in the downtown area. Slowly but surely some things are returning to normal. In November, we’ll take a look at what remains and what new things to expect in Downtown Seattle.
About the Day Tripper column
Gas prices are sky high, and a night in a hotel is approaching astronomically expensive. So, for the foreseeable future, I imagine many of you are going to find yourselves taking day trips rather than the road trip vacations we’ve grown to love.
This beautiful region in which we live is ripe with opportunities to explore new places, see new things, and learn a little something at the same time. I promise to keep the longest journeys to a one-way distance of under 200 miles. Whether you want to make it an overnight trip, a weekend, or just a very long day trip, we should be able to pull it off.
I hope you’ll grant me the honor of your virtual company as we travel these roads together. Happy trails!